The Aral Sea (23 and 24 March 2018)
From Khiva we returned to Urgench and caught a train to Nukus for a trip out to the Aral Sea, or what is left of it. The Aral Sea is not a sea. It is…
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Khiva (21 and 22 March 2018)
Another day, another Silk Road city. It must be said that by now John was a little over ‘the four M’s’ (mosques, mausoleums, minarets and medresses) but hey, we are unlikely to ever be back…
View PostSamarkand (18 to 20 March 2018)
“Sweet to ride forth at evening from the wells, when shadows pass gigantic on the sand, and softly through the silence beat the bells, along the Golden Road to Samarkand.” (The Golden Road to Samarkand,…
View PostYurts and camels (16 and 17 March 2018)
From Bukhara we drove out to a yurt camp near Lake Aydarkul. On the way we stopped to see an ancient water reservoir. And some even more ancient petroglyphs. When we arrived they were setting…
View PostBukhara (15 and 16 March 2018)
”To follow the Silk Road is to follow a ghost. It flows through the heart of Asia, but it has officially vanished, leaving behind it the pattern of its restlessness: counterfeit borders, unmapped peoples. The…
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